This story is from Planet Detroit’s Neighborhood Reporting Lab, where community reporters write about health and climate issues in their neighborhood. Neighborhood Reporting Lab is supported by the Americana and Kresge Foundations.
On a recent “Baddie Tuesdays” at Elephant Bar, Chef Dunny Davis was cooking up Bonita Birria Tacos: savory lion’s mane and jackfruit grilled to perfection, tucked in a 313 Urban corn tortilla, “kissed with cheese,” and served with Chef Dunny’s signature mouth-watering “freaky” sauce.
The smells of sizzling mushrooms waft through the air as he scoops the lion’s mane and jackfruit into corn tortillas. As R&B melodies play in the background, vegan allies and food enthusiasts fill the bar.
Many of the patrons were not vegan but were lured in by the aromas from the bustling side street. They were open to trying the tasty sensation coming from the kitchen filling up the bar space. Women on a girls’ night out sipping on drinks eagerly anticipated the Bonita Birria Tacos, Munchwrap, SexMex Eggrolls, and more.
Davis is on a mission. He is creating a space to foster diverse but enticing avenues for people to explore veganism and making it fun with his “Vegan Baddies” campaign.
“I’m used to women being more open to trying the vegan options because they are usually dieting, exercising, and watching their food consumption; so they are eager to try my plant-based remixes of foods they already love to eat but can’t usually indulge in because it’s not good for them,” Davis told Planet Detroit.
Black chefs revolutionizing Detroit vegan restaurant choices
Chef Dunny is one of several up-and-coming Black male chefs in Detroit who are working to increase the options for vegan food in Detroit, especially in areas that lack access to healthy, fresh food.
More places are becoming more welcoming to vegans in urban areas. In the fall of 2023, the Liquor Basket on Detroit’s east side added a hot kitchen area to its store, featuring the vegan stylings of Chef Montrell.
After a night out, many people might crave a good bite to eat. While there may be many options, they are often limited to fat-laden fast food. A plant-based chef offers a healthier alternative, especially to underserved neighborhoods where access to healthier food is limited, and brings diversity the culture didn’t realize they needed.
Veganism is growing; according to the Good Food Institute, the plant-based food market in the U.S. has grown from $3.9 billion in 2017 to $8.1 billion in 2023, a 108% increase. At the same time, more people of color such as Chef Dunny and Chef Montrell are fostering a vibrant community of resilience and innovation that opens the door to celebrate diverse culinary traditions, promotes wellness as a family affair, and advocates for inclusive and accessible plant-based living.
For multiple years, PETA has ranked Detroit as one of the top 10 best cities for vegan food, with both fully vegan restaurants and spots that offer vegan options.
“Chef Dunny and Chef Montrell are really putting on for the culture being two Black men providing healthy options within the community,” said Edwin Taylor, a local food critic known as Edd Eats on social media who spends his free time trying different food options around the city.
For the first time, he participated in Veguary, a month dedicated to vegan plant-based eating in January. Having more flavorful options, such as Montrell’s plant-based offerings, helped him stick to his month-long commitment.
Detroit’s late-night vegan delights
Chef Montrell offers a diverse menu filled with plant-based options, including the popular chickpea sandwich at the Liquor Basket.
“The best part about Chef Montrell is that he’s open late for the night owl vegan or the ones who work late with his closing time at 1 A.M,” Taylor said.
The diverse variety of food options on the menu feels familiar and comforting because the names are based on favorite dishes. “The wing dinner and burgers were made of mushrooms, and the deli sandwich is a chickpea blend that makes you think of tuna or chicken salad,” Taylor says.
These chefs say they are being mindful of what we consume and how it affects people of color.
Black men being at the forefront of the growing movement may be untraditional, but the chefs say it is needed to move the needle when it comes to health-related issues and diseases in urban areas mainly populated by people of color.
They remix familiar menu items into healthier, plant-based options, which pull people in out of curiosity to see how they compare to the traditional dishes they grew up knowing and loving.
Detroit’s ‘vegan baddie’ experience
These vegan chefs are certainly defining health, compassion, and community in the Motor City. “Being vegan in Detroit is inconvenient,” said Chef Dunny, noting that busy Detroiters don’t often have the time to take what they are consuming seriously.
“I’m here to lighten the load for the people by creating the ‘vegan baddie’ experience of delectable dishes that you don’t even realize don’t include animals until it’s gone,” says Chef Dunny.
Next, Chef Dunny is headed to VegFest on June 2 at Eastern Market where vegans and the vegan-curious can check out Vegan Baddies cuisine options and all of the other great plant-based creations for the culture that aim to help improve health and wellness for people of color.